http://www.startinghome.com/2009/09/14/sloan-toilet-tanks/ Information to buy or sell your home in Chittenden County Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:26:19 -0400 hourly 1 http://www.startinghome.com/2009/09/14/sloan-toilet-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-966 Pike Tue, 18 May 2010 19:59:33 +0000 http://www.startinghome.com/?p=286#comment-966 Good luck with it. Good luck with it.

]]> http://www.startinghome.com/2009/09/14/sloan-toilet-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-960 DH Wed, 12 May 2010 20:25:56 +0000 http://www.startinghome.com/?p=286#comment-960 I can report the same problem in a 10-year old Flushmate. A pinhole on the seam where the two halves of the tank join. It causes water to leak onto the floor. Like you, I am annoyed to need a $100 replacement part after 10 years. I will try my luck with epoxy. If that doesn't work, I will buy a new toilet that will be anything but Flushmate. Thanks for posting your experience. I can report the same problem in a 10-year old Flushmate. A pinhole on the seam where the two halves of the tank join. It causes water to leak onto the floor.
Like you, I am annoyed to need a $100 replacement part after 10 years. I will try my luck with epoxy. If that doesn’t work, I will buy a new toilet that will be anything but Flushmate. Thanks for posting your experience.

]]> http://www.startinghome.com/2009/09/14/sloan-toilet-tanks/comment-page-1/#comment-772 Pike Mon, 19 Oct 2009 02:42:15 +0000 http://www.startinghome.com/?p=286#comment-772 <strong>Update</strong> It was keeping me up at night. Wanting to fix the pressure tank--it was like an itch I needed to scratch. I decided I needed try to repair the tank prior to installing the new toilet. Replacing the leaking tank was not cost effective, but patching the leak? After draining the tank, I took a soldering iron to the plastic around the hole in hopes of melting the plastic closed. Don't try this. My second attempt worked. The leak was located on the top of the tank between two support ribs about 1/2" apart. I covered the (now larger) hole with fiberglass cloth then filled the cavity between the ribs with epoxy. I capped this with a piece of wood I shaped to match the curve of the tank, and I clamped the wood, epoxy and fiberglass down with a custom clamp welded from flat bar and screwed to the conveniently placed screw holes on the tank. Had the leak been anywhere else on the tank, this would not have worked. However, a week and many flushes later, I happily returned uninstalled toilet I had so recently purchased. Update
It was keeping me up at night. Wanting to fix the pressure tank–it was like an itch I needed to scratch. I decided I needed try to repair the tank prior to installing the new toilet. Replacing the leaking tank was not cost effective, but patching the leak?
After draining the tank, I took a soldering iron to the plastic around the hole in hopes of melting the plastic closed. Don’t try this.
My second attempt worked. The leak was located on the top of the tank between two support ribs about 1/2″ apart. I covered the (now larger) hole with fiberglass cloth then filled the cavity between the ribs with epoxy. I capped this with a piece of wood I shaped to match the curve of the tank, and I clamped the wood, epoxy and fiberglass down with a custom clamp welded from flat bar and screwed to the conveniently placed screw holes on the tank. Had the leak been anywhere else on the tank, this would not have worked. However, a week and many flushes later, I happily returned uninstalled toilet I had so recently purchased.

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